America 2013

Author: admin

  • Where to Alaska?

    Where to Alaska?

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    But first … the story of the final ride to Ushuaia.

    17.12.

    We get up very early. The ferry to Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego goes at 9 am. You have to be at the ferry terminal an hour before. There are also some people from the hostel. A Frenchman who has been on the road with his bicycle for about 2 1/2 years and a  few backpackers, going to Isla Magdalena, to see the penguins. Steve and Judy arrive with their Harley. We want to ride with them to the Argentinian border.

    The crossing to Tierra del Fuego takes around 2 1/2 hours. The island is divided, a part belongs to Chile, the other one to Argentina. The first 150 km are gravel road in a very good condition, but very dusty. We were heading east, we had tailwinds and made good progress.

    If you travel in a group, you constantly look in the rear mirror, if you lost your buddies.
    Andi and I had the lead. After about 120km we lost Steve and Judy. We stopped and waited for one or two minutes. The two did not show up. Andi got off the bike and I returned. The Harley stood on the roadside. Steve was working on it. He did not know what the problem was. I watched him for a while and then went to pick up Andi, who was waiting on the roadside about 1 1/2 km back.
    Steve had no good news. He took off the cover of the engine. The earth was soaked with the black engine oil.
    While Steve tried to identify the problem, I noticed that one of my front shock absorbers leaked and lost oil. The sealing is broken. In comparison to Steve’s problem, mine is quite a small one.
    A chain in the engine of the Harley was broken. An on-site repair is not possible. He needs a truck.
    Well, the Argentinian border is about 30 km away. I go there and ask if I can get help. A police officer tells me that there is an Estancia with a mechanic 15 km back on the road.
    I drive back, stop at the Estancia and explained the problem. Arturo, the mechanic, took his tool box and got into his car. I said: No, we do not need a mechanic, we need a tow truck. Arturo called a friend and told me he will be there in about an hour. I’m going back to Steve, Judy and Andi.
    We were waiting. The wind blew hard, the sun beat down from the sky. Wrapped up in our motorcycle clothing, face masks and scarfs we were sitting on the roadside … sometimes chatting, sometimes silently lost in thought. The traffic is dense. The passing cars, buses and trucks were covering us in dust. Even after 1 1/2 hours no pickup truck showed up.
    I went again to the Estancia, Arturo again called his buddy, who promised to come this time. I was waiting there.
    I asked if the wind blows here all year round. Arturo says: Yes, but at the moment it is not that strong. Oh? Not that strong?

    After about an hour the pickup truck appeared. Back at Judy, Steve and Andi we loaded the Harley, with the help of other motorcyclists, that came along and had the luxury of a supporting car, on the pickup truck. Steve and Judy had to return to Porvenir. I was told at the border that they will not be allowed to cross to Argentina with the broken bike. Andi and I continued to Argentina.
    At 7pm we crossed the border. We had 300km to go. As we had a reservation in a hostel in Ushuaia, we decided to take the effort and to go all the way. The speed was higher than usual. We fought against the sunset, the wind and the cold. Luckily, it will not get dark until half past ten at the moment. Tired and cold we arrived in Ushuaia at the last daylight. The photo finish has to wait until tomorrow.

    18.12.

    Today we drive the last few kilometers to the “end of the world”, which is marked by the end of the road  “Ruta 3” in National Park Tierra del Fuego. Big photo session. Some of the tourists ask from where we are and how long we are on the road. A few take pictures of the “crazy” motorcyclists .. with us, of us, with the motorcycle. It’s almost as if you had won a race.
    The rest of the day we spent walking around in Ushuaia.

    19.12.

    Patagonia is a really beautiful spot on earth. The nature is just breathtaking. We wish we could stay longer. Unfortunately, we have to go back to Punta Arenas. But I’ll definitely be back .

    As of today, we are heading north.
    Rio Grande, which is located right in the middle on the way between Porvenir and Ushuaia, has little flair. We stop only for gas, drive all the way back and stay in Porvenir, a small town across from Punta Arenas. Our ferry is leaving the other day.

    In the hostel we meet Pablo, his father and a brother. They are merchants, and sell mainly dried fruits, dates, nuts, pistachios, … . Some of the goods come from Chile, some from different parts of the world. They drive with their pickup truck through southern Chile, in order to sell them. We spent a funny evening with them.

    Unfortunately, we also received some bad news. Andis motorcycle is delayed for another two days and will arrive on 23.12. in the evening in Punta Arenas. It is not sure if we can get the bike out of the customs before Christmas. We hope for a little “Christmas miracle”.

    20.12. – 21.12.

    Back in Punta Arenas.
    The next three days we have to wait, because it’s weekend, there was no responses from the carrier or from the local authorities. The whole thing is a bit tedious. Punta Arenas is quite nice, but Ushuaia would have been a better place to wait.
    There is a BMW mechanic in Punta Arenas. I went there on Saturday morning to get my sealing fixed, but it was closed as well.

    What happened next and whether we got Andis motorcycle and how we spent Christmas, I will tell you in the next post.

    I wish everyone a  Happy Holidays.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.P.S.
    Five months On and Off the Road leaves visible traces on the material. In the album are a few photos of the current state.

  • at the end of the world

    at the end of the world

    160 days, 29,457 km, 13 Countries

    We arrived at the end of the World. Maybe not as expected, just with one motorcycle, but we are here.

    It was an exciting finish. Steve and Judy, with whom we wanted to ride the first kilometers, had very bad luck. In the middle of nowhere, 130km from Punta Arenas and 30km before the Argentinian border, but still far away from the nearest town, a chain in the engine of their Harley broke. It took almost 5 hours to get help and until their motorcycle was loaded onto a pickup truck.

    Andi and I crossed the border around 7pm. We fought our way almost 300km through wind and weather and arrived in Ushuaia at 10:30pm. The photo finish had to wait until the next day. The report in detail will follow shortly.

    I am very happy. It already was a great adventure and I – or, for the next three months, We – can’t wait for the experiences going north.

    Thanks to my readers, I hope you will accompany me for the rest of my journey.

    Next destination: Prudhoe Bay, Alaska … the other end of the world.

    Greetings, Jürgen.

  • Almost there

    Almost there

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    12.12. – 13.12.

    Each day when I get dressed and put on my many layers of clothing, it seems to me, as I would prepare myself for a flight into space and not for a ride on the motorcycle.
    So I abandon myself again to nature. I cross to Chile again. Puerto Natales is located not far from the border. At the border control I drop an apple quickly at the roadside. I totally forgot that it is not allowed to bring fresh food with you. There is no X-ray of my luggage this time, but the lady from the Ministry of Health wanted to have a look in each bag.

    Slowly my cash is running out. My new ATM card is in Andis luggage and he is bringing a few USD too. The last few days I mostly had microwave food from the supermarket and the last haircut was weeks ago.

    In Puerto Natales I met two Austrians again when walking through the streets, this time from Styria. They have been on the road for a couple of months too with their Land Cruiser pickup, heading north. Their next target is Alaska too.
    The concentration of “world”-travelers is increasing. The bottleneck, if you want to say so, is getting close. Modded pickups, campers, motorcyclists and bicyclists. Many Germans and French are on the road, the French usually traveling in groups of two to four vehicles.

    Nature looks bizarre sometimes. Shaped by the wind, the trees are standing aslant in the landscape, they all point in one direction. Bright green moss is hanging like shreds in the branches.

    14.12. Visit from home!

    I arrive in Punta Arenas in the early afternoon. Andi keeps me up to date by mail and SMS where he is at the moment. He has 4 stop overs, but everything went fine. I pick him up at the airport half past six.

    The joy is great, we celebrate a lot that evening. It was not that funny next morning.

    15.12.

    On Sunday it’s election day. On election day it is prohibited by law to sell alcohol. In the supermarket the shelves are blocked. Even the restaurants are closed. The Chinese seem to be exempt from this law. We therefore eat in one of the two open Chinese restaurants and even get beer there.
    As Andis motorcycle will arrive a week later than planned, we think about how to spend the time useful. We decide to pack the most necessary things for four days, leaving the rest in the hostel and drive to Ushuaia with my motorcycle.

    In the morning we go to the ferry port to make a booking for the crossing to Tierra del Fuego. Unfortunately today they only sell the tickets for the current crossing. We watch as the ferry slowly fills up with vehicles and passengers. In two days we want to embark on the ship as well.
    Only a barrier of water and a few hundred kilometers separate me from the “end of the world”. I can not wait to arrive.

    16.12.

    Today we are on foot. Again we went to the ferry port, which is about 5km away from the hostel. We make the booking for tomorrow’s crossing. On the way back we saw Steve and Judy, the couple from the States, passing by with their bike. They wanted to take a ferry today, but no ferry today. They later wrote an email we will meet tomorrow at 9am at the terminal.

    Perhaps it may sound strange, but tomorrow is an important day for me on this trip.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • Lamas crossed his path

    Lamas crossed his path

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    The headline would be an excellent book title. 🙂
    It’s been a while since the last article. I caught a cold at the beginning of December and could not get rid of it for a while. So I did not want to write very much or do other things. Meanwhile, I already arrived in El Calafate far south. But one by one.

    30.11. – 02.12.

    Still in Valdivia in Chile.

    Christian, a guest from Uruguay at the hostel, wanted to travel to Argentina by bus last night. He came back late to the hostel. No more buses this night. Apparently customs strikes, but it is likely that some people are on duty. I give it a try and leave for Argentina in the morning, in the worst case I have to go back.
    The fears are unfounded. They work, there are not many people at the border, the exit and entry does not take very long.
    Soon after the Chilean border, the landscape changes dramatically. A vast area is gray and gloomy. The trees are dead and the landscape is covered with gravel. The result of volcanic eruptions? I can not figure it out.

    I spend the next two days in Bariloche. The scenery looks similar to Switzerland. The architecture in Bariloche is clearly marked from this part of Europe. They brought the chocolate as well. Every few meters on the main street there is a shop offering the sweets in all forms. Chocolate paste, chocolate bars, chocolate figures, chocolate jam, chocolate ice cream, chocolate beer, even some houses are made of chocolate. The owners have to deal with keeping the kids away that creep around the houses with greedy eyes. On the outskirts there is also a chocolate museum.

    I take the opportunity to do some workout again. I did not do that for a long time. Approximately 25km from Bariloche near Llao Llao there are several trails through the forests.
    The crowns of the tall trees swing back and forth, creaking in the strong wind. I have to admit that’s a little scary. Along the way are many broken branches and trees. Wouldn’t be that good to be killed here by a falling branch. I move on.

    03.12. – 04.12.

    The windows in the room in the hostel were not quite tight. It was cold. I do not feel so good in the morning. I caught a cold. At “cozy” 5 degrees C I start to Esquel and go south on the famous Ruta 40. I leave the “alps”, the mountains change to smaller hills and vegetation becomes barren again. The wind increases in strength. It is much stronger here than I experienced in the Atacama. By all available means I try to prevent that the cold wind from crawling through my clothes. With Velcro straps I make my sleeves tight.

    With a slight fever I arrive in Esquel. I meet Hadas, a girl from Israel, which hitchhiked up and down the whole south of Chile and Argentina. I talked with her for a while and got some tips. Then I just went to the pharmacy to get medication, some food from the supermarket and went to bed.

    The next day, I remain in bed the most time. Then I review the route to El Chaltén. The next trip would be about 550km and then almost 600km. I did 550 km in the Atacama, but the conditions were far better than here. At these temperatures 300km is the maximum for me.

    5.12.

    I pushed back the slight fewer and decided to go on as planned. Today’s weather is a little more pleasant. The wind is not so strong, the sun is shining in a cloudless sky.
    The flora is sparse, brown with green bushes and dried-up grass, fauna, however, is very lively. Very many lamas on the whole route, sheep, cows, wild horses and ostrich. Sometimes they stand on or near the road, but flee when I approach.
    Pertio Moreno is merely a stopover in the vast nothingness. Again, one of these islands surrounded by land.

    6.12.

    On the way to El Chaltén the tarmac road ends and turns into a gravel road. The lanes are solid. Between the lanes, the loose gravel has accumulated, sometimes there is only loose gravel. The wind blows from the side. Doggedly trying to keep the bike at higher speeds in the 30cm wide lanes. Sometimes you can’t keep the bike in the loose gravel, the bike is lurching dangerous. The adrenaline level shoots up. I reduce speed and try to get to the solid track.
    Somewhere on the road I meet Judy and Steve, a couple from the States. They have been traveling with a Harley for about 8 months – with a Harley on that road. I follow them, because I’m not sure if my fuel is enough to get to the next gas station. They have some spare fuel in a canister. Steve later told: “I have been on roads with the bike, where I should not have gone.“ A lot of things broke, but minor things he can repair himself.
    The gravel road lasts for about 150km. I t was a strenuous ride, but it was fun. The new paved road is already under construction, but you can not take it yet. The adventures are getting less and less. Bit by bit each road gets paved.

    El Chaltén is a small village at the foot of Mount Fitzroy. It consists merely of accommodation, restaurants, souvenir and other shops with everything the trekkers and mountaineers need. From 1 to 4 or 5 day tours around Mount Fitzroy and the glacier you can get everything you want.

    The proximity to Antarctica is visible. The mountains are not high 1,000m to 2,500m a few outliers over 3,000m. They are all covered with snow. Glaciers writhe deep down into the valley.
    Down here in the south, sun sets very late, it gets dark around 10:30pm.

    7.12.

    I remain most time in the hostel. My cold is still not cured. I am not fit enough for a 20 km trek to the glacier and back.

    8.12 . – 11.12.

    A short drive to El Calafate. I did not plan very much for the next 3 days. I just want to recover from my cold. El Chaltén is way more pleasant than El Calafate, but El Calafate has better infrastructure. The visit of glaciers and other spots have to wait until we come back. I spend the most time in front of the TV. The cold is still there but I feel much better.

    Meanwhile I got “bad” news from Andi. Because of the strike of customs, his bike is still in Valparaiso. You remember, I saw the ship with Andis bike, entering the port about three weeks ago. The motorbike will arrive a week later than planned in Punta Arenas.

    Thank you for reading, Juergen.

  • dear diary

    dear diary

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    There is not much going on these days. It’s just three weeks and about 2,500 km to Punta Arenas. A stone’s throw away. The route and the intermediate stops are fixed, so I have time. I stay one more night in Pucón.

    25.11., 26.11.

    I wanted to leave today. But sometimes other creatures ensure that I won’t get bored on my trip. Every day in the morning I check my bank account. And that is a good idea as can be seen today. Somewhere on my journey my bank card got copied. At the weekend someone in the Dominican Republic withdrew the equivalent of 750 EUR. Money that is withdrawn at the weekend is visible on Monday on the bank account. So today all I did was blocking the card and communicating with the bank.

    The next morning I get the positive message that I almost certainly will get my money back. Since it is a skimming case, I’m in Chile and still in possession of my ATM card and the money was withdrawn in the Dominican Republic, there is insurance by the company which issues the ATM card. So it will be just a few EUR fees for blocking the card. In about three weeks I will know it.

    I do not know where I’m driving, but the landscape is beautiful. On the roadside are sometimes signs “Ruta de siete Lagos”. I realize why all the Europeans came to live in this part of Chile. It almost looks like in my country and the climate is a bit similar as well. Being homesick is much easier to bear. Every few kilometers you can see German street names, signs with “Zimmer frei“ and “Cafe y Kuchen” and in some restaurants there are German menus. Approximately after three hours, I arrive in Valdivia. 

    27.11., 28.11.

    Valdivia is not directly on the sea, but a few miles inland where the rivers Río Calle Calle Río and Cau Cau come together. There is a daily fish market on the waterfront, where you can watch the fishermen at work.

    Along the water front there are also South American sea lions hanging out in the sun. Wikipedia says, the animals can get 2 1/2 meters tall and can weigh around 300 kg. Yup, I can confirm that. They are arguing quite constantly. The large animals only seem tame when they sit close to the fish market workers, who throw the fish heads directly in their mouths. The residues are eaten by gulls, vultures and other birds.

    There is an Irish pub in town. Hurrah!

    I work. Seriously, I worked for about two hours. The router – for laymen, it is a device through which you can connect to the Internet with mobile phone, tablet or laptop – on the second floor of the hostel does not work. I will solve the problem and get a free night.

    29.11.

    Yesterday we had BBQ Argentinian style, on a wood fire in the hostel. The night was long, there was plenty of meat and a lot of wine. Although I got up early, I can’t drive today. And the distance of about 350km including a border crossing is too far for me to start at noon. After breakfast I go back to bed for another couple of hours.

    It is really comfy in the hostel, but I hopefully will make it out of here tomorrow. Argentina is waiting.

    Thank you for reading, Juergen.

     

  • kicked the bucket on the roadside

    kicked the bucket on the roadside

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    17.11., 18.11.

    I leave Valparaiso and drive on smaller roads a little through the wine valleys, sometimes on- sometimes off-road and spend the night in the small town Santa Cruz.

    Looking for a place to stay I have read in the travelbook of the Lama Lodge, which is run by an Austrian-German team – or maybe not. It should be about 100km east of Talca somewhere in the forest. The description on their website is a bit poor: “Approximately 90km after Talca you are crossing the bridge ,Curillinque’. 100m after the bridge turn right and follow the road for 16km. 4WD recommended, the road is often in poor condition.” Well, the description is not quite true. 100m after the bridge ,Curillinque’ there is no diversion. The diversion is 100 meters after the next bridge. There is no sign for a lodge. I follow the gravel road.
    Hard to believe, after 16km there is, in the middle of nowhere, really a Lama Lodge, even llamas are there, but no one else. Simply turning up seems not to work. I go back to the main road.
    Later I found out, I did not want to go there. There is just a mountain lodge which belongs to the hostel. The main hostel is just a few miles from Talca.
    I don’t want to go back to Talca and look for a place to stay in the city. I already kept my eyes open on the way to the lodge. Along the road there is a rest station with a small shop, a restaurant and a few cabanas. I stop and ask how much the night is. The lady thinks for a long time: “How much I can probably demand that he does not move on?” 8000 CLP / 12 EUR. That’s ok. Single room, bathroom, even if only cold water and cable TV.

    19.11. – 20.11.

    I took a very quick cold shower and was ready to go at 8am. I get on the bike and press the start button … nothing happens. What’s going on? The night was cold, probably problems with the battery. I push the bike in the sun and wait for a while. Maybe some heat helps. Unfortunately not. I take off the cover panel and check the water and contacts of the battery. Does not help at all. In one of my last posts I was surprised that the battery has not had any problems so far. I’m just glad that this did not happen in the middle of the forest.
    I ask for help. The owner was approaching with his big pickup truck to give my small battery with his large one a jump start. I thought: „Maybe he is burning all my fuses.” But the bike started. I drive a few miles to charge the battery a bit, but soon realize that something is wrong. The instruments play crazy, the tachometer shoots up, the instrument lights are flashing like a Christmas tree, the injection does not work properly. „Hurray! ” I’m going back to the pension and packing the motorcycle. The owner jump starts my bike again and I just hope that I manage the 70km back to Talca to a mechanic.

    After a few kilometers, the instruments start going crazy again, injection does not work too. After about 15km it kicked the bucket at the roadside.
    I scream loud and angry in my helmet. There are four or five houses along the road. Where my bike died, a local, José, was working in his garden. I ask him for help. He said he knows a mechanic and phoned around. While we were waiting, we chatted a little, as far as my spanish allowed it. He told me about Chile. That there currently is a big economic upturn, that there are many raw materials and mines in the Atacama and also gold and uranium is mined in the area. I tell him about my trip and me.
    No mechanic appears, even not after 1 1/2 hours and after José has tried several times to reach him. Then he said that it’s probably better to organize a pickup truck and bring the bike about 15 km further to a mechanic. I agree .. which other option did I have. José jumps on his bicycle and drives off .. and I .. I wait. After about an hour José came back with an old yellow pickup truck, a driver who is even older and two young men. I unload the bike and we put it via a ramp on the truck. At slow speed to the mechanic I can enjoy the scenery, the green valley and Lake Colbun with the wonderful turquoise water.

    We reached a small village and stopped at the mechanic. Six of us lifted the motorcycle off the truck and pushed it into the yard. So I’m stuck somewhere and do my best to communicate.
    The workshop belongs to Mauricio and his wife Laura, they are around mid 30’s and have a young son Joaquin, about 6 years. Mauricio is supported by his brother Santiago. The family moved about 8 months ago to this village. For 6 months they have had the land. The house is a simple wooden hut. Slowly they underpin a house around it. Mauricio and his family are good hearted people.
    “Tranquillo“ (take it easy) is what I get to hear from Mauricio very often in the 26 hours I spend here.

    Mauricio still served a few customers, he looks under the bonnets and repairs little things, I wait. Then he takes a look at my bike. I explain the problem. Mauricio detects that the battery is broken.

    With Santiago I go to Talca, the next large city about 40km from the small village, to buy a new battery. This is a bit difficult, because the batteries they have in stock, the poles are reversed and therefore don’t fit into my motorcycle. We walk through several stores. A shop can offer the required battery until the next day.
    That means, I can not move on today. On the way back I asked Santiago whether there is accommodation in the village. No, there is not, but he asks his brother if he knows someone .

    Back in the village Mauricio says, “Tranquillo, first we have dinner, then I have some more work to do, then we’ll see.” So I have dinner with Mauricio, Laura, Santiago and Joaquin. Outside on a small wooden table, which threatens almost to break, I get a giant plate of lentils with sausage.

    Mauricio works until it gets dark. He is a jack of all trades, looks under the hood, analyzes, detects and fixes every problem in a few minutes. Laura told me that people from all over the area come to him.
    While Mauricio and his brother were working, I talk with Laura. Tell about Austria and my journey.

    Later in the evening some relatives pass by. I can stay with them. After Mauricio has finished his work, we drive to the relatives. We have dinner once again. On TV they show the soccer match Brazil vs Chile. Chile lost 2-1. I can stay in one of the beds in the room of the sons.
    After we had breakfast the next day, I showed on the internet where I come from and a few things about Austria. Before we go to Mauricio’s home and workshop, we say goodbye to the family. I wanted to leave some money, but they did not let me.

    Some people passed by with their cars at Mauricios workshop. Mostly with small problems. I’m sitting in the yard watching him work. While people waited for Mauricio and Santiago to fix the problem, they surrounded me and asked me about my journey. Every one of them said goodbye with a handshake, sometimes with a hug, and wished me the best for my journey. I can not remember when I’ve seen such warmth from people that I’ve met just for a few minutes.

    In the early afternoon Santiago and I pick up the battery in Talca. We put in the battery in the bike and check if everything is working. The bike is running and power is ok. “Tranquillo, now we eat and then we finish the bike.” So I eat one more time with the family, this time a giant plate of spaghetti.
    Mauricio was happy that he could work on a BMW. Our meeting is an experience for me and for the family. Laura took pictures of him connecting the battery and the other equipment.
    While Laura and Mauricio picked up Joaquin from school, I packed the bike and got ready for departure.
    I asked Mauricio how much it was. „Tranquillo“, he did not want anything. I cannot leave that way. I was welcomed and cared for, they gave me shelter. Pretending I have to go to the bathroom, I left some money in the house. We exchanged contact information, took a few photos and said goodbye.

    In the late afternoon I drive about 300km to a ski village about 70km east of Chillán. In the transitional period the village is almost empty. The snow is gone, the winter visitors as well, the weather is still cold, the summer guests have yet to come. Most shops and accommodation are closed. In the large hostel there are only two people working. Once again I feel like I’m in the movie „The Shining”.

    21.11.

    Today I will stay on Panamericana and stay overnight in Temuco, a bigger city. I need long socks for the cold weather and a post office.

    22.11., 23.11.

    A 400km “day trip” over Lonquimay to Pucón, turning left after Lonquimay on the 181, taking the R-95-S and S-61. It is an excellent ride through a wonderful landscape. About 150km on mostly good gravel roads. Sometimes you can go 80kph, in the rearview mirror a cloud of dust. Sometimes you have to take care not to crash into cows and sheep crossing the street.

    Somewhere on the road there was a vintage car rally. At a short break, an old car passed me with high speed. I tried to catch up, but lost it in a village. I saw another one and organization vehicles. I made a few rounds and tried to find more, but did not succeed, so I continued.

    Pucón is a tourist village. Hostels and tour organizers at every corner. It is located on Lake Villarrica and there is the nearby volcano Villarrica. But I need people around me to whom I could talk. I was mostly traveling alone the last couple of weeks. In the hostel I meet an Irish girl I’ve met in La Serena. Also a dutch woman, who was also in the hostel in La Serena.

    While I was unloading my bike in front of the hostel, an Austrian from near Braunau stopped. He is living here for 20 years and spends each summer in Austria and comes back for the summer in the southern hemisphere. Before he moves on, he said tomorrow it will rain.  He can see it in the clouds and he was right, it’s raining today.

    Thank you for reading, Juergen.P.S. Not every journey ends happily. The motorcycle of Lauren and Adrian from Australia, I met at the airport in Bogota, was stolen in San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina. After the thieves tried to start  the motorcycle unsuccessfully, they threw it into a ditch about 1 1/2 km further. Unfortunately it was damaged in a way that a repair would have taken too long. Lauren and Adrian were 11 days before Ushuaia and a couple more from Buenos Aires and would have gone home soon.

  • relaxed days in La Serena and Valparaiso

    relaxed days in La Serena and Valparaiso

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    12.11.

    I checked in for another day in La Serena. The hostel is cozy, La Serena as well.
    One day, I try to make a trip to Vicuña. The village is located in the Elqui Valley. A few kms before the village I had to stop. Farm workers were demonstrating. In this area they grow fruits, oranges, tangerines and wine. As far as I understand they demonstrate about poor working conditions and wages. The road is blocked by a wall of fire. I take an off-road detour back to La Serena and try to get to two observatories. It is not allowed, the streets are closed. There are a few observatories around La Serena and you can book tours.

    I enjoyed the few days in La Serena. Sitting in a cafe, looking out of the window, watching people, relaxing and walking through the streets. It’s been a long time since I stayed that long in the same place. I was in Bogota about 6 weeks ago, where I stayed 5 days and in Quito for 3 nights. Otherwise it was only 1 or 2 nights. I have been traveling now for 4 months. When I was in Australia, after 3 months, I felt like being on the run, almost each day at a different place. I don’t have this feeling here .. not yet. Maybe, because I have a goal .. or several goals. Nevertheless, sometimes it is good to stay 4 to 5 nights at the same place.

    13.11. – 16.11.

    I leave the Atacama on the way to Valparaiso. The rides may have been long and tedious, but nevertheless, it was an extraordinary experience to drive through the vast desert. The sparse vegetation, no shadows where you could seek refuge and only a few vultures pulling their circles in the air. The large distances between villages and cities. The different colors and texture, sandy, stony, earthy, yellow-gray, brown and red and often very cold … .
    Slowly the vegetation changes. First, there are small bushes, dotting the landscape. The trees are getting taller and grass is covering the ground.

    Immediately after my arrival in Valparaiso I dropped off the bike at the BMW dealer in Viña del Mar. After about 25,000 km and lots of off-road driving in Peru the bike deserves a little care. A new rear tire, new chain kit, clutch and brake needed to be checked, and some other things.

    Parts of Valparaiso are a World Heritage Site. The majority of old houses cling to the hillsides and in the small valleys. Steep narrow streets and alleys run through the city. Graffiti on almost every wall. Stairs and alleys lead through the labyrinth of houses. Many of the houses are accessible only on foot. Most of the famous elevators are unfortunately down. And unfortunately it is often very dirty in the back streets, garbage is almost everywhere. But nevertheless very beautiful. A city with character.

    The neighboring city, Viña del Mar, is the complete opposite. New, modern, wide roads, a very nice beach, more space and it seems to me a little bit more relaxed than Valparaiso. It is nice to see both parts.

    Being a World Heritage seems not always to be a good thing. You are often not allowed to change things on the buildings. Most of the houses are very old. Every time the neighbor of the hostel is using its tap, it sounds like Chewbacca from Star Wars is talking.

    At the last day in Valparaiso, I was at the lookout close to the Museo Naval y Maritimo. You have got a great view over the port there. I watched the business on the port for a while. A large container ship approached. I thought: Well, that’s not what you see every day. I watched it entering the port. Then I was like: Wait, I know the name of the ship from somewhere. Oh, yes! Andi wrote an email a couple of days ago. In one of the many containers is Andis motorbike, waiting to be forwarded to Punta Arenas.

    Tomorrow I move on. 4 weeks to finish my first goal.

    Thank you for reading, Juergen.

     

  • through the desert

    through the desert

    Album

    2.11., 03.11.

    The wind was taking control the last 1,000 kilometers towards the Chilean border. I got a bit scared, how much the side- and headwinds impact on fuel consumption. At 290 km the reserve light flashed. I started to count: 290 km, 13.3 liters, that is about 4.6 liters per 100km, compared to 3.5 on average. My GPS showed a gas station after 109km. I have 4 liters reserve. It does not take a mathematician to see that there could be a problem. Going back? The last gas station was around 30km back. I reduce the speed and move on. Luckily they put a village somewhere in between where I can refill.

    The wind is a constant unpredictable enemy against whom you fight. Sometimes you get pushed down or the wind suddenly vanishes when you lean against it.

    The endless straight streets in the desert are interrupted by smaller and larger villages. They are like islands in a sea of sand. Where rivers made their way through the mountains in hundreds of thousands of years, there are green oases.

    It’s early in the afternoon, so I decide to cross the border to Chile. The border formalities are done soon. Only the two apples that I have stored in my bag are responsible for a delay. My bags get x-rayed. You are not allowed to import fresh food. I have to fill out a form. The two apples got weighed, everything was entered in the computer and then they got disposed of in the trash.

    Peru was sometimes a real challenge, up in the high cold mountains and with the winding roads. I’m curious what Chile has prepared for me.

    Chile:

    The penultimate country on the way south. There is a time jump forward by two hours. That means, it gets dark two hours later. I got a bit confused in the first days, because I was used that it is dark around 7pm.

    Arica is just across the border, where I spend the first night. Chile is pretty expensive, prices are European.

    04.11.

    Desert, desert, Atacama Desert. Heaps of sand up in the north of Chile. A giant cat toilet. Gas stations are pretty rare up here – it gets better more south. With the last drop of gas I arrive in Iquique. Iquique is located at about 600m above sea level. The road down offers a breathtaking view of the city, which is dominated by a huge sand dune.

    I can hardly believe it. Finally I got distilled water for my battery in a hardware store. Yes, a hardware store. Since the U.S. I have not seen a hardware store. I’ve already been wondering that the battery has not caused any problems. I pour about 1/8l water into the battery.

    How many times have I asked in motorcycle shops and battery shops. The last one in Peru wanted to sell me battery acid. Whenever I said, I need water for my battery, they looked dumb at me. Distilled water .. unknown. Especially in Central and South America, where so many people have motorbikes. I did not understand that.

    I also got Ducttape at the hardware store. A buddy once wrote “Ducttape fixes everything”. I’m curious if I can fix the holes in my panniers.

    05.11.

    Day 2 in Iquique. Working day. I spend almost 4 hours via remote access to update a few computers at home. I’m not here for pleasure. 🙂 A little chat with family and friends. You have to take advantage of a fast Internet connection.

    Having lunch and doing some sightseeing. I got in contact with BMW in Valparaiso. A service needs to be done. My lady demands a new rear shoe and she is crying for some other care.

    06.11.

    About 500km to San Pedro de Atacama. There are a lot of tourists here. Like 20 to 1 compared to local people. The village is in the middle of nowhere. There are some sights around the area. I got a bed in a dorm for one night, after asking through several hostels. Anyway it was too touristy for me.

    In Peru, I met three dutch motorcyclists somewhere on the road. They told me that they belong to a group of 27 people who are traveling for 50 days on an organized tour from Ecuador to Punta Arenas. As I walk through San Pedro, I see them all in a hostel.

    07.11.

    In the morning I go to the Salar de Atacama, a salt lake about 40km from San Pedro, where I am supposed to see flamingos. There are a few actually in the water surrounded by a bizarre landscape. After that, I’m moving on to Antofagasta. Sometimes I fall asleep for several minutes on those long straight roads.

    Mining is the dominant industry in the Atacama. Many street signs indicate the direction to mines. Some signs have information about historic mines and settlements on it. Some of them date back about 150 years. Sometimes ghost villages are seen off Panamericana. Often the houses are gone, only the cemeteries are still present, where the iron crosses are rusting in the bright sun.

    Antofagosta is far away from being a nice city. There are many Titty Bars in the city – “Girls and Beer”. Probably to get the money out of the miners pockets. Walking to the center, I got stopped by a seedy man. He speaks perfect English and has only a few teeth in the mouth. Told me that he wants no money, only practice English. He has lived 10 years in the U.S., but unfortunately no one here speaks English and he is happy when he can practice a little bit. He told me how prosperous Chile is, because they have copper. With him, this prosperity has not arrived yet. He repeatedly emphasized that he wants no money, but we could go and have a beer … I’m moving on.

    08.11.

    No change in sight. Desert as far the eye can see.

    I was already very impressed with the Australian Outback, but the Atacama represents a new dimension. For days I just drive through the desert, between 400 and 500 km a day, which is pretty tedious. Maybe I go in circles, but I don’t think so, when driving down the long straight roads.

    Before Caldera, I go through the National Park Pan de Azucar and drive the last 100km along the coast. Finally there is some change.

    Chile is very expensive – especially hotels – European prices. I was used to get along with about 30 EUR per day in Central and South America until now – eating, gas, accommodation included. Here I need much more.

    09.11.

    In cloudy and cold weather I made my way to La Serena.

    The Pan-American Highway has claimed many victims. It almost looks like a long cemetery. The dead are honored with memorials that are sometimes made very creative. But the whole Panamericana is renovated. A large part of the Pan-American Highway in Chile is in excellent condition. In one to two years you can go through Chile with a Formula 1 car.

    Who thought that it is warm here, is wrong. It takes until about 10:30 until the sun is winning the fight above the haze. Until then, it’s freezing cold. It is warmer further inland, where the mountains start to rise, between 2,000 and 2,500 m above sea level. It’s hot when you don’t move, but driving, it is very cold. It gets much colder when you get close to the sea. I almost always wear sweaters, warm lining and a face mask.

    After driving about 3,000 km in the last 7 days, I have a stopover for three nights in La Serena.

    10.11.

    Good morning. I am happy that I don’t have to get up. And it is raining, so I don’t even have to look for an excuse.

    Thank you for reading, Juergen.This time in the gallery:
    – Endless Roads
    – Faces of the Desert
    – Worshipping the dead
    – … and other things

  • up(s) and down(s)

    up(s) and down(s)

    Album

    26.10., 27.10., 28.10.Caraz – Huanuco – Huancayo, 750km

    Although, I’m better prepared than last time – I got everything ready, socks, T-shirts, face mask – it was cold and shitty anyway.
    About half of the route, for example Cerro de Pasco to Junin and further on, is on a huge plateau at a height of between 4,000 to 4,400m. It rains and the wind is blowing cold. It is a horror to drive in these conditions. It is the rainy season in the mountains, which lasts from October to March, six months of rain, six months of sun, as I was told.

    In Huanuco I went to a bakery in the evening. I wanted to buy a few things. I showed with my fingers that I wanted to have 2 pieces of pastry. The lady behind the counter started to put some pieces in a plastic bag. I show again: 2.
    She: “Si, 2 Soles.”
    I: “No, 2 pcs.”
    “Si, 2 Soles”.
    I stopped arguing and watched her putting more pieces in the bag. For 2 Soles, that’s about 0.6 EUR cents, I got 20 pieces of small round pastries. So, breakfast is saved for the next few days. Since then, I always ask for the price and how many pieces it would be, when I buy pastries.

    The road to Hunancayo is a real disaster. It is littered with potholes, sometimes it only consists of gravel. I drive through villages whose roads consist only of earth .. muddy, soaked by the rain. I can hardly keep up cleaning the visor with a piece of cloth. It’s drizzling lightly. The, otherwise dusty, roads transformed into dirt muddy roads.
    On the last 100km, the road is a single track again in steep mountains, interrupted with dips where the water is running downhill. I drive with not more than 25 kph.

    Even the street mutts are dumber in Peru. More dogs are chasing me than in other countries. Sometimes they run right in front of the motorcycle. You have to take care that you don’t run over them. Some of them are chasing cars too. The result can be seen, when they are lying smashed on the street. Sometimes I go slower, so that they do not catch me but just let them chase me for a while.

    I reached Huancayo completely dirty, tired and exhausted. I don’t feel good and have a light fever. The next morning I check in for a second night and stay in bed. I can’t even eat.

    Eating out is a bit different. They bring the food, as soon as it is cooked, to your table. Sometimes the main course was on the table before the soup. I would not recommend beef. I ordered it twice and was disappointed twice, it was like leather. Maybe I just had bad luck.

    In Huancayo there it was, the moment where I thought: Why? The moment when you want to put your bike in a corner for a week and not even look at it.

    29.10. , 30.10.

    I feel better again.
    When leaving the hostel, Hostel Samwy, by the way, a very, very nice family, the woman warned me of corrupt police. Until now I can not confirm that. It was quite the opposite. I was stopped a couple of times, and so far the Peruvian police is the friendliest of all countries I crossed. On the second day or so, I got stopped and they told me to drive slowly, because radar guns might be used on the road further on, or telling me about other motorcycle travelers passing by.
    Police here can be easily recognized. Even from afar you can see them. They stand in white Nissan SUV, either an open or closed rear, crossways to the road.

    I’m fed up with the mountains and drive back towards the coast. For today I planned only a short tour of about 250 km. This could mean 5-6 hours of driving on these often winding one-lane mountain roads.

    The weather god is well-disposed towards me. It remains sunny. Today I wore 3 T-shirts, in addition to long johns and my cap under the helmet. The ride is bearable in the sunny weather. First I have to go up to more than 4,700m.
    Then the road leads along the Rio Canete. The further I get down the valley, the warmer it gets. I enjoy the ride and the scenery. Halfway a bridge is repaired. I have to cross the river. The river is wide, the water runs strong. I’m going through. It is deep. The water reached almost to my knees. I’m almost on the shore .. almost. I fell into the cold water. Two workers approach quickly and help to lift the bike and move it up to the street. My panniers are leaking a little bit from falling a few times.
    A little further down the street I stop and have a break. I spread my wet clothes and stuff at the side of the street. They dry quickly in the bright sun.

    In Lunahuaná I checked in for 2 nights. I need a day off to rest my tired bones.
    The next morning one or two of the other guests must have looked at and tried to lift my bike. The alarm goes off. I do not know who it was. When I got out, they were already gone.

    My bike got cleaned from the dirt of the past few weeks. It had to be done again. A smaller older guy did the work. Whenever he pushed the bike a little bit, I jumped out of the chair, because I was scared he would fall, getting buried under the bike.
    I cleaned the motorcycle clothing at least a little bit and performed some minor maintenance as well.
    Then I jump in the pool. I did not expect that I would need bathing trousers in Peru. It’s a great relaxing day.

    During a walk through the village, I passed a hairdresser and I jumped in. It was a small simple hut, a chair for adults and one for children. On the mirror is a sticker, I translate it like: “This is a catholic house. We are not interested in information from protestants or other sects.”
    The woman is working in the classic style. Comb and scissors are the only tools. She is looking a bit grim all the time. After finishing she wanted 4 Soles / 1.1 EUR for the haircut. When I gave her 5 Soles, she started smiling all over her face.

    31.10. , 01.11.

    I’m back on the Panamericana traveling south. The landscape is still the same. The Pan-American Highway is close to the coast, a long dirty band which runs through a desert landscape and less attractive towns and villages and you are constantly fighting against the wind.
    After Ica, more inlands, it becomes more beautiful, the distances between settlements are larger. The desert has more appeal, and it is not dirty along the road. Often you drive in an inclined position there. It’s always a small challenge when you overtake a truck. For a moment it is windless, just before the wind hits you again with full strength again.
    After the winding roads of the last days it’s almost relaxing to drive just straight ahead for a while. With good music, you can even let your mind wander.
    There are small trees planted on the side of the road, which are tied with ropes, so they are not blown down by the wind. They look like barren creatures who try to reach for something with their branches.I passed some cyclists on the road. At sea level in the desert and in the mountains at about 3,500 meters. Fully loaded they kick into their pedals.

    Maria Reiche can be seen everywhere in Nazca, maybe the glory vanished a bit.
    Today is Halloween. When I went out in the evening to have dinner, I could hardly believe my eyes. Parents, let’s say, the mothers, are running with their dressed children through the streets. Clusters of people form, where a business is offering candy. The streets are packed with people.

    As it is hard to see the large Nazca lines from the ground, I go into the air.
    Can some of the ladies please explain to me, why you need a whole bag with hygienic stuff on a half hour scenic flight in a small plane? And then she started to get angry, because  they took away liquids at the security check.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.