12.11.
I checked in for another day in La Serena. The hostel is cozy, La Serena as well.
One day, I try to make a trip to Vicuña. The village is located in the Elqui Valley. A few kms before the village I had to stop. Farm workers were demonstrating. In this area they grow fruits, oranges, tangerines and wine. As far as I understand they demonstrate about poor working conditions and wages. The road is blocked by a wall of fire. I take an off-road detour back to La Serena and try to get to two observatories. It is not allowed, the streets are closed. There are a few observatories around La Serena and you can book tours.
I enjoyed the few days in La Serena. Sitting in a cafe, looking out of the window, watching people, relaxing and walking through the streets. It’s been a long time since I stayed that long in the same place. I was in Bogota about 6 weeks ago, where I stayed 5 days and in Quito for 3 nights. Otherwise it was only 1 or 2 nights. I have been traveling now for 4 months. When I was in Australia, after 3 months, I felt like being on the run, almost each day at a different place. I don’t have this feeling here .. not yet. Maybe, because I have a goal .. or several goals. Nevertheless, sometimes it is good to stay 4 to 5 nights at the same place.
13.11. – 16.11.
I leave the Atacama on the way to Valparaiso. The rides may have been long and tedious, but nevertheless, it was an extraordinary experience to drive through the vast desert. The sparse vegetation, no shadows where you could seek refuge and only a few vultures pulling their circles in the air. The large distances between villages and cities. The different colors and texture, sandy, stony, earthy, yellow-gray, brown and red and often very cold … .
Slowly the vegetation changes. First, there are small bushes, dotting the landscape. The trees are getting taller and grass is covering the ground.
Immediately after my arrival in Valparaiso I dropped off the bike at the BMW dealer in Viña del Mar. After about 25,000 km and lots of off-road driving in Peru the bike deserves a little care. A new rear tire, new chain kit, clutch and brake needed to be checked, and some other things.
Parts of Valparaiso are a World Heritage Site. The majority of old houses cling to the hillsides and in the small valleys. Steep narrow streets and alleys run through the city. Graffiti on almost every wall. Stairs and alleys lead through the labyrinth of houses. Many of the houses are accessible only on foot. Most of the famous elevators are unfortunately down. And unfortunately it is often very dirty in the back streets, garbage is almost everywhere. But nevertheless very beautiful. A city with character.
The neighboring city, Viña del Mar, is the complete opposite. New, modern, wide roads, a very nice beach, more space and it seems to me a little bit more relaxed than Valparaiso. It is nice to see both parts.
Being a World Heritage seems not always to be a good thing. You are often not allowed to change things on the buildings. Most of the houses are very old. Every time the neighbor of the hostel is using its tap, it sounds like Chewbacca from Star Wars is talking.
At the last day in Valparaiso, I was at the lookout close to the Museo Naval y Maritimo. You have got a great view over the port there. I watched the business on the port for a while. A large container ship approached. I thought: Well, that’s not what you see every day. I watched it entering the port. Then I was like: Wait, I know the name of the ship from somewhere. Oh, yes! Andi wrote an email a couple of days ago. In one of the many containers is Andis motorbike, waiting to be forwarded to Punta Arenas.
Tomorrow I move on. 4 weeks to finish my first goal.
Thank you for reading, Juergen.