America 2013

Author: admin

  • Honduras, Off-Road (en)

    Honduras, Off-Road (en)

    Album

    10.09. – 14.09.

    I leave Monterrico early in the morning and make my way to Honduras with today’s destination Copan Ruinas just behind the border. It is a long ride today. But it is going well. About 80 km from the border, I see two BMW motorcycles on the side of the road. It is the first time since my departure, that I see other people who are also heading south too. I stop immediately. It’s Renate and Bart from Holland, a very nice couple who are also traveling to South America. As they We decide to continue together to the border.

    On the border to Honduras there are surprisingly no helpers. As a reminder, the “helpers” are people who accompany you at the border and say, go here and there and at the end they want some money. But they do not really help.

    It takes about two hours for all three of us to cross the border. Re-run from A to B and get some copies again. A Lot of data is entered in the computer and written in the passport. There is much room for improvement with the processes at Central American borders. But again I can not say anything negative at all. We change money to pay the import fees and within a few minutes we are in Copan Ruinas .

    We stop outside the hotel / hostel / restaurant / bar ViaVia. It is a Belgian chain. The hotel is run by a very friendly and helpful Belgian. He is a motorcyclist too and knows almost everything about Central America. He gives us tips on what places we should visit, what to take care about, where we can find BMW dealerships and what roads we should take.

    He is also telling us how to properly bribe police. If you are fined, police keeps the driving license. The fine has to be paid at a bank. If it is paid, you get the driving license back. But as a traveler you don’t have much time for such things. One should never make a direct bribe. Discuss and argue as long as possible. Then argue that you have no time and need to move on and ask if there is another way to pay the fine. Ask if it is possible to give the money to the office and if he could pay the penalty at the bank. If he puts the papers away, you are on track.

    We stay two nights in Copan Ruinas and celebrate a little bit in the bar ViaVia. I’m glad that I met people with the same interests to talk to. Our schedule is approximately equal to Costa Rica and we travel together for the next few days.

    The next day we went sightseeing. Copán was once an important city of the Maya. With a small tuktuk taxi we drive to the ruins. The three of us barely fit in the back seat. The ride up and down on the steep rocky road of Copán is an adventure itself . Several times , I am afraid that we fall or that we have to get off and push.

    The ruins are spread out in a lush valley, the old walls overgrown with trees.

    12.09.

    We drive on to La Esperanza, the last 30 kilometers are off-road. My first time that I really got off-road. Sometimes, it is quite challenging for me as a newbie with a fully loaded bike.

    We were sitting at breakfast the next day, when we hear drum sounds and music. Bart got out looking. There is a parade of children, maybe because school started, I can not say. Lot of schools from around the area came to La Esperanza. The different schools have different motives. The children are dressed in costumes, dancing through the area. Sometimes, it seems to me that the children have no idea what the whole mess is about.

    We’re leaving. The first part of the route is off-road again. We come to a very muddy place. There is only one track. Bart moves forward, Renate was waiting until he was through. I’m at the back. Then Renate starts to cross the muddy place. As she was in the middle of it, a small bus made its way up the hill from the other side. I just wondered: Why? The guy has seen that there is only one track and Renate is already in the middle. The van could not pass and got stuck in the mud. Behind me and also from the other side other vehicles were approaching. For a few minutes nothing happened. It would not have been so difficult to pull Renate back a bit, but why? It was the bus drivers fault.  Finally, we pulled back Renates’ bike a little bit with the help of a few locals that the bus was able to pass.

    The road is bumpy. At some point it happened and I fell. My left box is torn from the rack and looks pretty damaged. Luckily the bike is ok. Bart and Renate have disappeared around the next bend. I put the bike up, then I empty the box. With a stone I hit the inside of the box to fix it a little bit. Bart comes back. I was able to fix the box at least so much that it fits back on the rack. On the inside is a small hole, But it stays on the rack.

    Back on a paved road, we take a short break. A few school children join us. We “talk” for a while. Bart let the two boys sit on his motorcycle. The two of them for sure enjoy that.

    We stay in San Lorenzo, at the sea.

    14.09.

    It’s Saturday and for the next three days there are holidays in Central America. There is a parade held in San Lorenzo too. We do not watch that long as we did the day before and head towards Nicaragua.

    Just before the border we got stopped. A single policeman and a whole bunch of the helpers. He wants to see our papers. It was a strange situation with one policeman and that bunch of people surrounding us. We did not want to let go of the papers. We talked about it later. It was the helpers who got us in the awkward situation, saying we have no respect for the police. At a certain point, the policeman stopped talking to us and called for colleagues on his phone. We waited. Bart suggested, we simply should continue. I did not want to, because I was convinced that we would get into real trouble. A few minutes later, two other officers came on a motorcycle. The helpers were gone. The misunderstanding was cleared and we can continue.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • Guatemala, of the efforts entering a country

    Guatemala, of the efforts entering a country

    Album

    08.09.

    I start early today, going to the border crossing at Hidalgo.

    When leaving Mexico they wanted 30 USD from me for the visa. I left Mexico the day before and entered it again. I stayed just one night, but it’s the law. I require an invoice. He says he can’t write one. If I want one I have to go to a bank and pay there. Today is Sunday, so banks are closed. I pay the fee, but I doubt that the money goes into the official pot.

    On the way to the border I was followed again by a person on a motorcycle. Telling me, you have to go there and there. Like the day before I paid 12 Quetzal for the disinfection of the motorcycle, then I went to passport control. As mentioned, I left the country incorrectly the day before. There is a penalty of 200 Quetzal / EUR 22. It is printed on a sign in 10 different languages at the passport control. I try to explain that I was not really in Guatemala. It does not help. I have to change money, that I can pay the fine and get the entry stamp.

    I went on to vehicle registration. There I show all papers and documents – Passport, vehicle registration, driver’s license. I have the vehicle registration in credit card format, which is new in Austria. But they don’t trust that one. Luckily I also have the old one in paper format with me. Although it is invalid since mid of July, it helps a lot here. The lady told me I need a Spanish translation of some documents. I asked why? Answer: It’s just like that. We discussed for a while. I asked what it costs. The buddy, who accompanied me all the time, got involved. Usually 200 to 300 Quetzal, today is Sunday, so it might cost 400 Quetzal or more. I try to explain that I got information from the Internet that I do not need any translation of documents. After a while I got mad and told her to return my papers.

    I went back to Mexico. This time I leave Guatemala properly with an exit stamp in my passport. In 2 days I left and entered Mexico 3 times. I had to open all my luggage again. I complain about all that to the officer. She asks, “Es muy complicado, hm? / It is very complicated, isn’t it?” “Si.”

    I’m driving to the next border crossing at Talisman. Once there, again some people were whistling and waving, that I should stop. The visor of my helmet is up. I ask loudly: “Porque / Why?”  They have no answer and let me go. I’m surrounded by money changers, waving with their bunches of money. I say that I need nothing. They almost started to quarrel among themselves, about who would be allowed to do business with me.

    Who is the first you meet at a border? Your personal guide. He is immediately at my side. This one speaks a little bit of English. They do nothing else than be on your side all the time, sort your papers and intervene in the conversation with the officials.

    The many entry and exit stamps in two days are confusing the officials a little bit. I get ordered into the office of the chief on duty. I tell him the whole story of the last two days and from the other border, that a document was requested by a notary, of which I do not understand why. My Spanish skills are improving especially at the border. My skills are still very bad, but I always learn a few words that help me next time. The officer is extremely friendly. This helps a lot. He got on the phone talking to someone else. Everything is OK, I can pass. I then ask him: Who are these people who walk around with me constantly, are they officials? He says no, I should ignore them.

    At the customs for the vehicle import the many stamps are confusing again. Once again I explain everything. The lady also got on the phone and then told me, I need no other documents by a notary or something else. All that is required are the national documents and helpful are the international translations of driving license and vehicle registration. I need to make copies. My guide showed me the copy shop. Costs 4 Quetzal. I dig in my purse. I only have 3. 3 are enough. You sucker! It probably would have cost only 2. I ‘m pretty annoyed today .

    There was a fee of 160 Quetzal at the border which I had to pay next door at the bank. A soldier with a rifle in his hands was protecting it. There were 7 or 8 people waiting. My helper pushed me right to the front of the line and said that is ok. This is a special service for me. The soldier does not say anything. I’m telling my helper that this is unfair to the other people and got to the end of the line. After paying, they checked the bike, if brand, color and serial number matches. I got a sticker and can drive away. The helper asks for a tip. I think about that and give him 10 Quetzal. But I regret it about two minutes later. You don’t really need them.

    Today it took me 4 1/2 hours to enter Guatemala. Fortunately Guatemala is in a different time zone and it’s 1 hour earlier than in Mexico. A few kilometers before I reach my destination, I fill up gas, when I recognize: Damn you forgot to change money. The employee at the gas station asked me how I wanted to pay? By credit card or with cash? I say: With a credit card. He replies: Does not work. Man, why do you ask? I was able to pay for the gas. I have 37 Quetzal left, that’s around € 4. Not very much.

    I arrived in Monterrico, checked some hostels, and asked if I could pay by credit card. No, unfortunately not, the machine does not work. I understand, credit cards are not welcome. “Is there a currency exchange?” “No, unfortunately not.” “Where is a Cajero / ATM?” They told me, but there I was not able to withdraw money. Perhaps the systems are shut down on Sunday. I asked in the store opposite the street, if there is another ATM. Yes, but he told me, he would not recommend withdrawing money there, it is not safe. I got told the hostel Jonny’s Place accepts credit cards. On my search for the hostel I stopped at the first place where I saw a Visa sign at the door. Paying with Visa costs 10% more. But for 15 EUR per night I don’t think twice. I am glad that I have a place to stay. For 9 Quetzal I buy 2l water and a small bag of chips. At least I don’t have to go to bed hungry. The mobile phone does not work wherever I ask, there is no internet, no ATM, credit cards do not help and no money.

    Monterrico is a small village. It consists almost entirely of hotels and hostels, restaurants and small shops. But it’s nice and relaxed.

    09.09.

    The next day I can change some money at the bank. I treat myself to a decent breakfast and my bike gets cleaned by hand washing. I stroll through the village and along the long beach. At noon I have siesta for a few hours in the hammock.

    In the evening, I was sitting in the hotel on the beach. A small group of people is close to me. One of the people is approaching me. He introduces himself as an employee of the Animal Protection Association. They are releasing small turtles to the sea. He asks me if I want to join. For a small donation of 10 Quetzales I can release two turtles. They are hardly bigger than my palm and black. We put them on a line to simulate a race. Some move quickly into the sea, others need little longer. They get thrown back a few meters from the waves several times. After a while the tiny animals disappear into the big wide ocean. Good luck on the trip.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • exciting days in Honduras and Nicaragua

    exciting days in Honduras and Nicaragua

    Meanwhile we, Renate, Bart and I, arrived in Nicaragua.
    In Honduras, we were riding a couple of miles off-road. I fell the second time. Luckily it was the same side as the first time. But my pannier did not get away well this time. I had to fix it a little bit with a stone, so that it would stay on the rack. I hope I can find someone in Costa Rica, who can fix that at least a little bit.

    In Nicaragua, we got in contact with corrupt police for the first time. Barts first meeting did not go so well. To be honest, the police were right. With the help of a local person, who took advantage of the situation in an unpleaseant way later that evening, Bart got his driving license back about two hours after the traffic control. Otherwise, they would have had to stay in the city from Saturday to Tuesday as there were public holidays at the moment.

    The 2nd time we were stopped, it was pure corruption. We were stopped by three officers and charged with an invented offense. First they said, you have to leave at least three vehicle lengths space between each other, later it was a speed violation.

    We have also been stopped in Honduras a few times. But there it was just a check of the driving licences. Since Honduras I only show the laminated copy of my driving license. They don’t notice it.

    Anyway, we were each fined about 75 EUR for nothing. We discussed with them. Bart got the idea: OK we are traveling in a group. You (the police ) keep one driving license (my copy),  we don’t let you keep all three. So we can not leave the country. Renate and Bart took their driving license, I was willing to leave my copy with them. We were almost ready to leave, when a local person stopped and asked in English if he could help us. Yes, you can! He discussed a while with the police and I got my “license” back too. I should have brought more than two copies.

    In a few days I am in Costa Rica. As soon as my laptop is repaired, or, what I won’t hope, I have a new one, I will tell more.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • update

    update

    There is much to tell.
    After a difficult crossing to Guatemala, where I spent two days, arrived in Honduras.
    Unfortunately, my laptop has decided not to accompany me any further. I’m looking for a solution, but concerning the blog, until then, I am handicapped.

    It was difficult to get into Guatemala. I failed at the first border. The lady insisted that I need a translation of the motorcycle documents, what simply is not true. After a while discussing with her, I told her angry to give my papers back, drove back to Mexico and to the other border crossing. There, I had no problems, it just takes time. I entered and left Mexico three times in two days.
    The many stamps were confusing and I had to explain to officials.

    I spent two nights in Monterrico, a small cozy village on the coast. I arrived there at late evening on Sunday without local money. It was hard to find a place to stay where I could pay with credit card.

    For the donation of a small amount to the local animal protection association I was allowed to release a small turtle to the sea.

    Just before the border to Honduras, I saw two motorcycles parking at the street. I stopped immediately. It were Renate and Bart, a very nice couple from Holland, who are also traveling south. We went together to cross the border into Honduras. The border crossing was pretty simple. It took about 2 hours to clear the three of us, because you have to run from A to B again, you need a lot of copies and many data are entered in the computer. But I can not say a single negative word.

    Copan Ruinas, right behind the border is a cozy small village. Opposite the hotel there is a restaurant / bar, named ViaVia which is run by a Belgian. I’m happy that I met people again I could talk to. Renate, Bart am I we had a some beers and other drinks that night.

    For the next couple of days I will join them, traveling together.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • off the efforts leaving a country

    off the efforts leaving a country

    07.09.

    What’s wrong with you Mexico? Yesterday you told me to leave with a rumble? And today you won’t let me go?

    I start between 9:15 to 9:30. My destination in Guatemala is about 30 0km away. I should make it there until 4pm.

    There are two border crossings to Guatemala near Tapachula. One after Tuxtla Chico, about 15 to 20 km from Tapachula and the other one, around about 35 km further south, at Ciudad Hidalgo. I went to the border crossing close to Tuxtla Chico.

    On the way there, people repeatedly were running on the streets, whistling and pointing to stop. But more about that later.

    Before I left Mexico, I asked the officer where I could cancel my motorcycle. They sent me to the customs. “You can’t do that here. It is just a small border crossing here.” Several people were talking at once. I have to go to the other border crossing. I have to do that in Tapachula. No, you have to go to Huixtla. I almost understood nothing. Since my passport was already stamped out, I have to fill out the visa again. I got a new entry stamp. The bike is unfortunately in no man’s land. 

    Also the money changers are soon at my side. I do not need money. So I went back through customs. I took the car track. Before the barrs, they told me that I have to push the bike back and take the bike lane. It’s fucking hot, I sweat under the thick jacket and it is no fun to push the heavy motorcycle around. But I wear shorts for the border crossings and formalities. After crossing a border I usually put on the more secure motorcycle pants.

    I’m going through the whole procedure again .. several times. Opening the panniers, unpacking, answering questions. It doesn’t matter that I want to leave the country. The border official is very nice and speaks English. She told me that she was in Vienna last year. I ask how she liked it. “It was very nice. Very clean.”

    I went to the other border station. On the way there you have to go through the city. A local motorcyclist follows me and rides beside me for a while. Searching for the border station I stop briefly to orient myself. He tells me that I need his services. I say: “No necesito. / No, I do not need.” He insists and pulls out a business card. I say: “No es verdad. / This is not true.” I ask a woman for directions and move on. Finally, the motorcycle driver let go of me.

    At the border station I again ask, where I could cancel my bike. The lady simply tells me to go through. I do and after paying a toll I’m in Guatemala. Great.

    I stopped. A man in civilian clothing immediately was at my side, quiet, not aggressive. He explained to me that I even have to disinfect my bike here. As previously so many people tried to stop me, I did not believe him at first. Then also a servant in uniform points out to stop. Another one was walking around my bike, spraying something to the lower parts. My bike is very dirty at the moment, so I question how useful this procedure is. I had to pay 12 Quetzal, the local currency, which I don’t have yet. The civilian person at my side called for a change person, at whom I changed 20 USD. For sure for a very bad exchange rate. Fuck that. I don’t start to discuss about 0.5€.

    Next to the disinfection station is the passport control in a nondescript hut. I again could not believe that and was driving a few yards away, where I was ordered to park the motorcycle. I was asked if I had the passport control already done. No, I did not. Where? The officer tells me that it is in the nondescript hut. Ok, so I walk back a few yards. I was asked how long I would stay. About 1 week. I got the stamp in my passport, that was it. Back at the motorcycle, they told me to walk into a building for the registration of the vehicle. I tell them, I have to cancel the bike from Mexico. Where can I do that? You need to return to Mexico. The civilian who was on my side all the time wanted some money too. I started to get pissed off, started my engine and drove off.

    Damn it! So back to Mexico. Back at the Mexican border station, I ask again, where I can cancel the bike? “Over there at the customs.”

    Finally a young border guard takes care of me. He spoke slowly and clearly and explained to me that I have to drive back about 100 km inland. He is annoyed that he cannot speak english better and I that I cannot speak better spanish.

    The customs authority is located a few kilometers outside the town Huixtla. There I can cancel my bike. It’s after 12pm. The heat is unbearable and I have to go from here to there.
    Before I drive off, he asks again: “Where do you have to go? ” I can not pronounce the name of the city. He asks: “Did you even understand what I have explained to you?” “Yes, yes, I know where I have to go.”
    I know, because on the way to Tapachula, I saved the position of the customs station in my GPS device, when I passed by yesterday. I just did not know that I had to go there to cancel my bike.
    While he  was checking my stuff, we “chatted” a little. He wanted to know how Austria is and how the situation in Europe is at the moment.

    Again, I had to stop at the military controls. My panniers were checked, questions were asked. But, I could already explain very well in Spanish what my problem was.

    At the customs office behind Huixtla, they checked if the papers comply with the vehicle and I got a confirmation. An officer escorted me in a vehicle a few kilometers before we stopped for a moment and he handed me over the papers. He wanted to make sure that I’m on the highway to Tapachula and not heading inlands.

    Close to Tapachula, it was already around 3pm. I was exhausted, my knees and lower legs looked already sunburned and my goal for today is around 300 km away. I had no plan B for a closer target and it will soon start to rain again anyway, so I decided to stay another night in Tapachula.

    I spent my last pesos today in the morning for fuel. At the hotel I was able to pay with a credit card and I made it in time to exchange another 20 USD in pesos. I don’t have to starve tonight.

    I will try it again tomorrow. It should be no problem this time. And I already have experience of entering Guatemala. There is only one thing. As of my passport I’m already officially in Guatemala. I hope that will make no problems.

    And now a few words about the people who tried to get me off the road. Yesterday I surfed a bit on the internet. I wanted to get some information about traveling to Guatemala. On a blog of another traveler, I read that those people want to make some money with unknowing tourists. Pretending that they help with border formalities, translating and so on.
    They are running on the street a bit aggressive, whistling and waving with their hands, that you should stop. In a way, like something had happened. It can make you insecure, if you don’t know about that.

    Armed with the information from the blog I passed by. Don’t stop, under no circumstances. When you are surrounded by a few people, it’s harder to get out again.

    The motorcyclist who traced me on the way to the other border crossing was the same kind of guy. Maybe I will stop tomorrow, when I feel safe and ask about in what way they want to help me.

    There are NO additional costs when you leave Mexico. You do not need help from anyone. All you need are the documents you received upon entry. The vehicle must be cancelled at a customs office. Which, unfortunately, was about 100 km inland.
    At border stations there are even signs that you will be punished, if you try to bribe the officials.

    Thanks for reading, Jürgen.

  • Oaxaca and an earthquake

    Oaxaca and an earthquake

    Album

    01.09. – 04.09.

    Days before in Morelia, Michelle told me: You have to go to Oaxaca! You have to visit Hierve el Agua. What she did not tell is that I almost would shit my pants going up there. About 50 km after Playa Ventura the route is heading into the mountains again. For about 200 of the 450km there are only curves. The narrow road is often in very bad conditions. Either it is destroyed by water, consisting only of gravel, half blocked or broken by landslides. In many parts the mountain is on the right side and the gorge on the left. I sit cramped on the bike and don’t dare to take the eyes of the road. “Oh man, why didn’t you stay on the coast?” Sometimes, I don’t drive faster than 35-40 km/h. At around 2.500 meters above sea level, I am in the clouds. Although I do not see more than 20m wide, I’m a bit relaxed, because I do not see the abyss.
    The population in this area is of a different sort, the facial features are different, even the clothing. It seems to me they are descended from an older culture.

    Four nights in Oaxaca. One day more than I wanted to stay. On the trip to Monte Albán and Hierve el Agua I got into heavy rain and I had to dry the clothes.
    Monte Albán is situated about 10km from Oaxaca on a mountain top and was the capital and religious center of the Zapotec, which belonged to the ancient peoples of Mexico.
    Hierve el Aqua, about 60 km from Oaxaca, are two rock formations that look like waterfalls with about 50 to 100 meters height. They were formed by highly calcium carbonate containing water.

    I liked Oaxaca. It’s amazing how quickly you “settle”, when you find a place where you feel comfortable. And how “difficult” it is to pack up and move on.

    Since I am in Mexico, in Oaxaca, it was the first time that I met more than only one other tourist. I did not feel like an alien, like in some other places.

    The lively city also shows another side of. Children, they can’t be older than 8 or 9 years, who are working as shoeshine boy or want to sell necklaces and other junk, older grannies running on their cane around, offering blankets or hand-tinkered dolls. Beggars sitting on the sidewalk. Sometimes I give a little, when despair appears very large.

    05.09.

    I spent the night in Tehuantepec, a slightly smaller city. It is hot and humid. After a short walk, I took a siesta. In the early evening I watch young people in a public place marching and drumming. I suppose they practice for Independence Day on September 16.

    Dining out is still exciting. I try different things, often without knowing what it is. I try to eat fruits every day, which is a welcome refreshment. Fruit salad, cut in larger pieces, is offered on many corners. Mangos, pineapples, cucumbers, … are sold in plastic cups or just in bags, usually spicy. With chilli powder and a spicy salsa. Sometimes they also squeeze a lime on it.

    I just wanted to take a small bite and entered a small restaurant with only four tables. “Restaurant” are also called  the stalls with an oven and two plastic tables on the roadside. I ask for the menu. No menu. The employee listedsome dishes. Pollo frito, crispy chicken. I’ll take that, sounds like there is no salsa on that one. They bring me soup. I can’t remember that I ordered soup. Two other tables are also occupied. I watch them. Oh, you get a whole menu here. The soup tastes very good. Then they bring the chicken. Probably it was 40 years when they killed it. The  menu includes a drink in an open glass with ice. I thought: From the tap? Oh what the heck. Why do I have drugs for diarrhea with me? I can not carry them around all the time. And took a large sip.

    06.09.

    I spent the last night in Tapachula, near the border to Guatemala. The 420 km from Tehuantepec are mostly straight ahead. 

    While I was sitting in the hotel lobby in Tapachula writing, everything started to shake violently. Un terremoto, an earthquake (with magnitude 6.5 about 30km linear distance south of here, as I read later). It lasts around 15 to 20 seconds. Everyone was getting out of their rooms and seeking protection under the door frames, including me. After a few minutes, there followed a short but weak aftershock.

    What do you want to tell me, Mexico? It’s time to leave?
    Goodbye, I liked it very much.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • Of crabs and other things

    Of crabs and other things

    Album

    26.08 – 28.08.

    I take the Highway #54 from Zacatecas to Guadalajara. A dream route through a dream landscape – especially the last kilometers. It’s curvy, uphill, downhill, through a large canyon, which can easily be recognized by the erosion of the landscape. Close to Guadalajara two waterfalls plunge from high up into the depths.

    Actually, I wanted to stay only one night in Guadalajara, which is still around 1.500m above sea level. Although the hostel is about 1/2 hour walk from the historic center, it is in a quiet and safe area, and I decided to stay a second night.

    Here in Mexico it is still the rainy season. During the day it usually is cloudy or even very sunny. It rains only occasionally and short. Around 3pm to 5pm the clouds start to mass. At night it usually rains a lot and very heavy. But in the morning you hardly can see anything, except from some flooded spaces.

    As it is still off-season, there are not many people in the hostels. Often, there are only 2 or 3 guests .. including me. The good thing is, I pay around 9 to 12 EUR for the night in a dorm and get the room for myself.
    Until now, the best question at check-in: I step with motorcycle clothing and helmet to the front desk of a hostel and ask if a bed is free for one night. Yes, it is. The employee looked at me from top to bottom. “Are you a pilot or something like that?”

    Also a few words about driving. Driving is like hell here.
    I am sure that there are traffic rules. But no one seems to take care of them. The one who is faster in a gap, wins. Distance between cars is only inches. Sometimes, when I look in the rearview mirror, it seems to me as if I had a car sitting on the pillion. There are signs with speed limits, e.g. “maximum 60”. But this must be a. I think they show the minimum speed. Sometimes the traffic forces its victims. A few days ago I passed a spot where a cyclist was hit. One of his legs was showing from under the blue cover.

    An absolute must in Guadalajara is the “Mercado Libertad”. A large market building with 3 levels at the edges and a large courtyard. A real maze. The aisles are arranged in a grid and barely a meter wide. Hundreds of small stalls can be found in the building and one part consists of snack bars. I walked through a maze of shoes, jewelry, vegetables, meat, electronics …. With luck, you will find a way back out.

    From Guadalajara I drive to Morelia. The center of Morelia is very colonial Spanish. I am sure there are a lot of things to see here too. But after a long ride I’m not in the mood for sightseeing and enjoyed chatting with the nice Michelle, who works at the hostel. Beside me there is only one other guest in the hostel, so she has not really much to do.

    After seven weeks of traveling I want to see the sea. My next goal is to go to Zihuatanejo. I choose a route through the mountains, where I get through several nice small towns, which I mark on my GPS for a stop on my return trip.

    In the center of the villages or small towns you will find a large, usually rectangular, park. Around this square there are the administration buildings, then the historic village and then the rest of the city. In very rare cases, there is a wide road to the center. In general, there are small, narrow, cobbled streets and roads leading to the center. Painfully you have to fight your way through crowded streets and traffic jams until you will be rewarded with a big open space.

    29.08. Zihuatanejo

    I was already in Zihuatanejo, when suddenly someone spoke to me in German on a red traffic sign. It was the guy in the car behind me, who jumped out and came to my side. “Hello, where are you going?” “To South America.” “Now in the rainy season?”  “Oh, it’s not that bad.” Unfortunately, that was all, as the traffic light turned to green.

    Zihuatanejo was a real disappointment. The travel book said: “Zihuatanejo has retained the charm of a small fishing village.” But, where please? The neighborhood in which I look for the recommended hotel, is crowded by hotels, restaurants, coffee shops and junk shops of all kinds

    As already noted several times, off-season, weekdays and only a handful of tourists. In the heat of the day I walk along the beach, my skin is covered with a layer of sunscreen, sweat and insect repellent. I was annoyed by hundreds of people.
    Dammit! I don’t want to eat at every restaurant I pass! I don’t want to buy bracelets or anything else! Even if they cost almost nothing. And I do not want to go fishing!
    The only highlight was the basketball court on the central square, where amateur teams were playing each evening.

    The waiter at the restaurant, where they properly pulled the money out of my pocket, told me: It can be dangerous in some places in Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador. During the day, there is no need to fear, it is safe. The bad guys work at night and sleep during the day. At night you stay at the hotel. And do not tell so much about you and your journey. Tell you’re traveling by bus and you are only a few days in the country, that they may believe you have little money. Someone may perhaps chat with you friendly and then tell it a bad boy.
    Only a short time later, someone starts to chat friendly with me in the central square. I thought of the words of the waiter. Thank you Mr. Waiter, for the paranoia!

    The hotel was (almost) quite nice. Almost, because I did not know what kind of animal was shitting tiny black crumbs from the ceiling in the bathroom and cockroaches were running around. Although they were only about 1/2 inches tall and there were only two or three you could see, but they were there. Perhaps it was indeed the cockroaches that were shitting from the ceiling. But for 9 EUR in a double room, on the beach, you accept those things.

    The hotel was run by a friendly 74 year old Cuban. I told him that I visited Cuba about three years ago. He said, since he left Cuba as a young man, he has never been there again. One must know, at earlier times, an escape from Cuba meant the loss of all property and also a return was hardly possible.

    Now that there are political changes in Cuba, maybe he can visit his home country again.

    31.08.

    With “Buen Viaje” from the Cuban owner of the hotel Elvira, I left this horrible place called Zihuatanejo. The route MEX 200 leads south about 20 km inland from the coast. The most annoying thing when driving are the “Topes”, the bumpers across the street. Wherever there are a few houses, you have those bumpers, making you brake.

    Today I have only an approximate destination, called Playa Ventura, about 400km away.

    Since my departure, more than seven weeks ago, today I passed other motorcycle travelers for the first time. A whole bunch of them. They were heading north. It seems it was an organized tour. Everyone was driving one of the larger BMWs. We were greeted with the obligatory biker greeting and gave a thumbs up sign.

    It was already late afternoon and I turned towards the sea twice, with the hope to find a hotel. But I ended up on earthy roads and in small very simple villages. Meanwhile, I was tired and did not want to continue, when I finally saw a sign “Playa Ventura Hotels y Restaurantes”. I stopped at the first hotel. There was nothing going on. An elderly woman was lying in a hammock. Names were screamed. “Tiene habitation?” “Si.” “Quanto cuesta?” “250M$, 300M$ con aire. Quiere ver?” “Si.” Well, 200M$ was more than adequate for the basic room, but I did not want to negotiate. “Esa sin aire esta ok” … “El restaurante, esta abierto?” “Si”.

    Playa Ventura is just a small village with a few simple hotels and restaurants. The waves crash with a loud roar at the long beach. No junk shops, no one who wants to sell you crap.

    After a shower and a short walk, I had a look at the menu. I could not find any of the dishes in my dictionary and ordered anything. It was fish, crispy fried. Since I only got a fork, I supposed that it was finger food. It tasted very good and the price was adequate. No rip off like two days earlier.

    In the evening I was sitting on the beach and watched the sunset and the crabs that had their home in holes in the sand. I remained seated motionless for a very long time. They came out of their habitation, the smaller and the larger ones. It seemed to me, as if they were watching me. Was it really so? A small crab that lived in a shell was walking through my feet. Slowly, the other ones got further and further away from their holes. Right in front of my feet, one was transporting sand out of his hole. One of the larger ones was crawling around me for a while and eventually approached me. He started to tweak my feet with his scissors.

    This is the place to be!

    Thank you for reading, Juergen.

  • from Monterrey to Zacatecas

    from Monterrey to Zacatecas

    Album

    22.08.

    I spent the second day in Monterey walking around in the city center. At early afternoon, I begin to understand why some countries are held siesta. What do you do when it gets too hot? Right, you go somewhere, where it’s cool. In Monterrey you might visit the Museum of Contemporary Art. There are some exhibitions about the Now, the Yesterday and the Tomorrow. It is the first time that I enjoy the privilege of having a museum to myself. Except museum staff there are no other visitors. I for sure could have taken a nap in one of the darker rooms. Nobody would have recognized it.

    23.08.

    Before I leave, I see a flyer in the hostel, with various destinations. I say to myself “You have got to do something anyway” and go to the “Grutas de Garcia” about 35 km from Monterrey. The Grutas are a very large cave system. Much more exciting than the Ruby Falls in the United States. Huge caves, enormous stalactites and stalagmites. Trails lead up and down. A playground for Indiana Jones. As the tour took much longer than I thought, I ditched my other plan, to drive a route through the mountains and went  straight on to Saltillo.

    Saltillo is very different from Monterrey. But I can only speak for the city center, where I was walking around. Monterrey, with its shopping streets and its parks can be compared to European cities.

    The center of Saltillo is more or less dominated by transversal and longitudinal streets. It is more like an anthill. The streets are full of life. No big supermarkets. Some of the bigger shops sell smaller motorcycles, washing machines and other equipment, often there are only five to six pieces of each kind standing around. There are many small shops, offering fruit and vegetables and other food, toy stores, shoe stores and fast food .. Mexican style with Tasco and Tortillas.

    24.08., 25.08.

    The way to Zacatecas leads through an imposing plateau at about 2,000m above sea level. Far away on the horizon, the plateau is surrounded by mountains. Sometimes you go through one of the mountains, just to enter another wide plateau. The vegetation consists of a forest of cacti, or maybe some kind of palm tree, I don’t know. What luck that the penguin is with me. We share the ride. When he is driving, I take a short nap in one of the panniers. On routes like this, I always wonder how far I can get until the light, that tells you that you run out of gas, lights up. I did 430km. On average, I make 350 to 370 km. At around 400 km, the joy changed to uncertainty. Is the light broken? Especially when there are only a few gas stations. These are the small things I occupy myself on long lonely rides. 🙂
    At some parts of the route, there were giant grasshoppers on the street. Those, hit by cars, were eaten by the other ones.

    Zacatecas is located at about 2,500 m above sea level, nestled between mountains. The source of the wealth of the city is a silver mine, which was excavated for almost 400 years. That was until around 1960. Now the wealth seems to successfully come from tourism. There are many large churches and, maybe, even more museums.
    The city is characterized by narrow streets, alleys and steps … so many steps. On many corners of the streets you can find mini-stores, only a few square meters in size. They offer the most necessary things. Sometimes craftsmen, like tailors or shoemakers, are running their business in one of those small rooms.

    I ascend an altitude difference of around 250m to “La Bufa”, the highest elevation, with a church, a museum, mausoleum, etc. You also can take a teleférico, a cable car, from the other side of the city. My heart is racing during the ascent. Can it be that you get out of breath like that at an altitude of 2,500m above sea level? Or is it just me?

    Police are very present in Zacatecas too. But, in comparison to Monterrey and Saltillo, the windows and doors of the houses are not barred. This makes the city a lot more friendly. It looks like I spend more time underground than above. I do the silver mine tour in Zacatecas too. Bur for the equivalent of 2 to 5 EUR entrance fee or admission you pay, you can afford to do a lot of things.

    Upon arrival at the hostel, Hostal Villa Colonial Cassot, they immediately took pictures of me and added them to their Facebook page. They told me that a lot of motorcyclists stop here. It was not until a month ago that two Austrians stayed here too. So I’m not the only Austrian who is traveling by motorbike in this area. They asked me if I wanted a beer. For sure, after a long ride I could have a small bottle of beer. He puts a 1.2l bottle on the desk. “This is for you.” A great place to stay.

    In the hostel I also met Henry again, or Enrique, what his real name is. I met Henry in the hostel in Monterrey. He is around 60 years old and a notary. His first wife died, he is divorced from the second one, as he told me. Now he is traveling through the country. He asked me where I am going and told me tips for each place. It seems like he has been everywhere. Every now and then he does a job .. translations, advice on legal matters. He knows the people of the hostels very well, and has stayed there for a couple of times.

    In one of the public places clowns were starting with their program in the late afternoon. Street vendors were selling cotton candy and other sweets. The place was full with families with their young children. The jugglers did their jokes until late into the darkness.

    So far I did not see a dangerous Mexico. Mostly happy and friendly people.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.

  • Welcome to Mexico

    Welcome to Mexico

    Album

    21.08.

    The border crossing took a while, but it was not that bad.

    My destination for today is Monterrey, where I will spend two nights. Just to get accustomed to the environment.

    Shortly after the border, the big social and monetary differences to the United States become noticeable. The majority of the houses are poorly maintained. Often they are dilapidated or in bare brickwork. Along the streets there is a lot of waste.

    I don’t take the highway leading directly from Reynosa to Monterrey. Instead I drive Highway #2 north-west along the border and then the #54 to the inland. It’s a bit like the Outback in Australia, an endless rocky vegetation with small trees and shrubs .. 25km straight ahead, a slight curve, 35 km straight ahead again … all the way to Monterrey.

    Driving along the border you quickly realize .. it’s “war”. Army and police are on the road in many places with their pickup Jeeps. A machine gun mounted on the back. Behind the gun a masked soldier or policeman. On the back there are three or four other soldiers or policemen. They are usually in groups of three or four vehicles. A hotel along the border is protected with sandbags, behind, there are two soldiers at the ready.

    I was stopped at checkpoints. At the first stop, the soldiers were very friendly. I had to open my panniers. A quick look inside. Meanwhile, again, the usual questions. Where do you go .. and so on?

    At the next stop, the three soldiers were a bit arrogant. You don’t need to understand the language. You can also read from the tone of voice and facial expressions. One was playing around with his flashlight and asked if I had one. Of course, somewhere deep inside a bag. I pretended not to understand. I had to open the panniers again. They were curious, poking around a bit. As I always say, there are idiots everywhere.

    Stop number three was very friendly again. The officer is very interested in my journey and wishes me all the best  several times.

    In one of my earlier posts I have written about the infrastructure of the cities. That everything is on the highway. All shops can be found on the through road, the houses are aloof. To get things done you need your car and everyone  is driving around in a car. I would probably describe it like: These cities have no soul. I’ve often thought that, when I was walking almost alone through the streets.

    Monterrey is completely different. The hostel is located close to the center. There is life in the streets. A lot of people are on foot. Although I understand only a little, I feel much more comfortable.

    I am tried to withdraw money, which I did not succeed at four local banks. I was a bit desperate. Is there a limit on my account? Yesterday I withdraw a greater amount of USD, just for emergency. I have to call my bank tomorrow. I finally succeed at an international institute. I’m relieved.

    Instead of a fast food restaurant, I have dinner in a real restaurant. I want to try the local cuisine. As far as I understand, there is a section on the menu with local dishes. I ordered something. 3 tortillas with chicken, completely covered with a sort of green pumpkin salsa, bean stooge and two pieces of beef. The taste .. new, I have to get used to it.

    I can not say anything yet about if it is dangerous. The owner of the hostel says it’s secure here. The houses are all barred, but the area is clean, and the houses are well maintained. There are cafes and restaurants in the streets. He offered me anyway to park the motorcycle in the lobby. I believe him and leave my motorcycle outdoors. It is covered and the alarm is activated. This time I attach, for the first time in years, the lock on the brake disc. I must not forget to take it off before driving. Otherwise I will get in trouble.

    Thank you for reading, Jürgen.