The headline would be an excellent book title. 🙂
It’s been a while since the last article. I caught a cold at the beginning of December and could not get rid of it for a while. So I did not want to write very much or do other things. Meanwhile, I already arrived in El Calafate far south. But one by one.
30.11. – 02.12.
Still in Valdivia in Chile.
Christian, a guest from Uruguay at the hostel, wanted to travel to Argentina by bus last night. He came back late to the hostel. No more buses this night. Apparently customs strikes, but it is likely that some people are on duty. I give it a try and leave for Argentina in the morning, in the worst case I have to go back.
The fears are unfounded. They work, there are not many people at the border, the exit and entry does not take very long.
Soon after the Chilean border, the landscape changes dramatically. A vast area is gray and gloomy. The trees are dead and the landscape is covered with gravel. The result of volcanic eruptions? I can not figure it out.
I spend the next two days in Bariloche. The scenery looks similar to Switzerland. The architecture in Bariloche is clearly marked from this part of Europe. They brought the chocolate as well. Every few meters on the main street there is a shop offering the sweets in all forms. Chocolate paste, chocolate bars, chocolate figures, chocolate jam, chocolate ice cream, chocolate beer, even some houses are made of chocolate. The owners have to deal with keeping the kids away that creep around the houses with greedy eyes. On the outskirts there is also a chocolate museum.
I take the opportunity to do some workout again. I did not do that for a long time. Approximately 25km from Bariloche near Llao Llao there are several trails through the forests.
The crowns of the tall trees swing back and forth, creaking in the strong wind. I have to admit that’s a little scary. Along the way are many broken branches and trees. Wouldn’t be that good to be killed here by a falling branch. I move on.
03.12. – 04.12.
The windows in the room in the hostel were not quite tight. It was cold. I do not feel so good in the morning. I caught a cold. At “cozy” 5 degrees C I start to Esquel and go south on the famous Ruta 40. I leave the “alps”, the mountains change to smaller hills and vegetation becomes barren again. The wind increases in strength. It is much stronger here than I experienced in the Atacama. By all available means I try to prevent that the cold wind from crawling through my clothes. With Velcro straps I make my sleeves tight.
With a slight fever I arrive in Esquel. I meet Hadas, a girl from Israel, which hitchhiked up and down the whole south of Chile and Argentina. I talked with her for a while and got some tips. Then I just went to the pharmacy to get medication, some food from the supermarket and went to bed.
The next day, I remain in bed the most time. Then I review the route to El Chaltén. The next trip would be about 550km and then almost 600km. I did 550 km in the Atacama, but the conditions were far better than here. At these temperatures 300km is the maximum for me.
5.12.
I pushed back the slight fewer and decided to go on as planned. Today’s weather is a little more pleasant. The wind is not so strong, the sun is shining in a cloudless sky.
The flora is sparse, brown with green bushes and dried-up grass, fauna, however, is very lively. Very many lamas on the whole route, sheep, cows, wild horses and ostrich. Sometimes they stand on or near the road, but flee when I approach.
Pertio Moreno is merely a stopover in the vast nothingness. Again, one of these islands surrounded by land.
6.12.
On the way to El Chaltén the tarmac road ends and turns into a gravel road. The lanes are solid. Between the lanes, the loose gravel has accumulated, sometimes there is only loose gravel. The wind blows from the side. Doggedly trying to keep the bike at higher speeds in the 30cm wide lanes. Sometimes you can’t keep the bike in the loose gravel, the bike is lurching dangerous. The adrenaline level shoots up. I reduce speed and try to get to the solid track.
Somewhere on the road I meet Judy and Steve, a couple from the States. They have been traveling with a Harley for about 8 months – with a Harley on that road. I follow them, because I’m not sure if my fuel is enough to get to the next gas station. They have some spare fuel in a canister. Steve later told: “I have been on roads with the bike, where I should not have gone.“ A lot of things broke, but minor things he can repair himself.
The gravel road lasts for about 150km. I t was a strenuous ride, but it was fun. The new paved road is already under construction, but you can not take it yet. The adventures are getting less and less. Bit by bit each road gets paved.
El Chaltén is a small village at the foot of Mount Fitzroy. It consists merely of accommodation, restaurants, souvenir and other shops with everything the trekkers and mountaineers need. From 1 to 4 or 5 day tours around Mount Fitzroy and the glacier you can get everything you want.
The proximity to Antarctica is visible. The mountains are not high 1,000m to 2,500m a few outliers over 3,000m. They are all covered with snow. Glaciers writhe deep down into the valley.
Down here in the south, sun sets very late, it gets dark around 10:30pm.
7.12.
I remain most time in the hostel. My cold is still not cured. I am not fit enough for a 20 km trek to the glacier and back.
8.12 . – 11.12.
A short drive to El Calafate. I did not plan very much for the next 3 days. I just want to recover from my cold. El Chaltén is way more pleasant than El Calafate, but El Calafate has better infrastructure. The visit of glaciers and other spots have to wait until we come back. I spend the most time in front of the TV. The cold is still there but I feel much better.
Meanwhile I got “bad” news from Andi. Because of the strike of customs, his bike is still in Valparaiso. You remember, I saw the ship with Andis bike, entering the port about three weeks ago. The motorbike will arrive a week later than planned in Punta Arenas.
Thank you for reading, Juergen.